Suquash, An Amazing Historical Site….
The rugged beauty of Vancouver Island coastline is world renowned and adventure is afoot this January day for Christine & I… and Rosie our wonderful Aussi Shepherd. Our plans are to explore a remote beach area at an old mine site this afternoon…. driving to a coastal location well known for it’s abundance of shore life, including interesting weathered stone architecture of an abandoned coal mine…. Even today lumps of coal from outcroppings of seams of this black gold can be found amongst a vast array of unique shore features and geological formations. However, less visible and hidden in the ever changing landscape of time is another more significant historical value here. The seemingly lonely stretch of beach today is a place where indigenous people gathered for generations to harvest nature’s bountiful marine offerings.
The Kwakiutl first peoples call the site “Suquash.” It is about 20 km southeast along the coast from our small Port Hardy community. Vancouver Island has 3400 km of coastline, home to many historical sites and thousands of species of marine invertebrates, dozens of different marine mammals, and over 300 species of flying visitors: resident & migratory seabirds, shorebirds, and coastal waterfowl.
Suquash, meaning “the place where seal meat is cut into strips,” is layered with historical tradition and communal spirit as indigenous people gathered, fished, hunted seal, sea lions, and other marine life. The shorelines of Suquash have witnessed centuries of families engaged in rhythmic harvesting practices connected to the cycles of nature and human need for food, clothing, and shelter.
As we prepared for our adventure my imagination transported me back to eons ago, when the beach was alive with cultural energy. I pictured a fleet of dugout canoes pulled up at the water’s edge, vessels shaped by skilled hands using rudimentary tools, and fashioned from massive cedars. I thought of these boats traversing up and down the coastline in pursuit of whatever the sea had to offer: salmon, crabs, and much more. The air would have been filled with laughter and stories, as elders and youngsters alike were dressed in traditional home made attire, warming around a campfire sharing food and conversation.
The images of working together were palpable; many hands together cleaning and butchering seal. I have watched this before in my Arctic travels, witnessing Inuit hunters hunting seal and Beluga whale, and afterwards using a traditional Ulu to skin and cut up the day’s fortune of meat… then distributing portions to eager community members. I recall the wonder in youthful eyes, smiling while hunters recounted tales of high adventure, explaining the habits of their quarry.
In that moment, as I relived memories of the Arctic, I realized Suquash was more than just a place on a map, it was a classroom, a gathering place, and a site of teaching, gratitude, and connection to generations of peoples before me. I imagined the same excitement and cultural socialization occurred here at Suquash as I’d seen on the shores of Liverpool Bay and Tuktoyaktuk, NWT. I thought of Kwakiutl people, like Inuit, preparing wild meat, cutting it into strips, tending to the skins, sinews, and blubber using traditional implements and containers… demonstrating deliberate care and reverence for that which nature had gifted them. Each task a lesson for the young, imparted by elders, ultimately creating a bond between the young and old, nature, and ancient people of the land. Through such practices cultural values were passed down, ensuring each new generation understood their place within the broader tapestry of life and community.
Today, Suquash history stands as a reminder of the resilience and ingenuity of the First peoples who travelled up and down the coast surviving without modern conveniences. I thought of First people’s foraging, and I admired their tenacity, imagining the bustling activity up and down the beach front, the laughter and rituals of thanksgiving inviting reflection.
Though unrelenting nature has reclaimed Suquash, the historical significance as a place of plenty for First people continues to resonate, encouraging stewardship of the land, emphasizing a need for respectful visiting and use of such important sites.
By recalling and preserving the history of Suquash we pay tribute not only to the past but also to the present strengthening the relationship between human nature and the natural world. The stories of such places can inspire us to approach our own lives with humility through an understanding that we are all part of a greater whole. Suquash holds a living memory of those united in purpose, working in partnership passing on traditions. As Chris, Rosie, and I stood on its shores we for that moment were connected to that vibrant past, inviting us to listen, learn, and honour the legacy of all peoples who have come before us.
Today wildlife and only the memory of souls inhabit here. Nature has taken over, affording to the fortunate visitor glimpses of wilderness lore, a view of rainforest habitat, and a feeling of the traditional way of indigenous life.
With this in mind we loaded our backpacks with hiking essentials, water, snacks, small first aid kit, camera supplies, binoculars, thermos, fire-starter. We set out about noon full of excitement imagining the area’s history amongst a variety of shore life we chance to see.
There was little traffic as we traveled 20 or so kilometres down Highway 19, turning left onto an active gravelled logging road eventually onto a deactivated dirt road to the Suquash pullout area, (having room for about four vehicles). From there shoreline access was an easy 10 minute walk through an amazing renewed forest of Hemlock, Cedar, Spruce conifer trees on a carpet of sword ferns, lichen, moss, and salal bushes. Nature has reclaimed her domain from prior coal operations, creating new habitat to a multitude of wildlife… deer, bear, wolves, owls and much more. Moss covered steel and stone mining remnants were visible a short distance away; and Rosie in her glory dashing ahead through the vibrant green undergrowth.
Suquash coal came to colonial attention early 1800’s by Kwakiutl first peoples. Interestingly, they were the first coastal miners in BC, digging coal using hand tools, trading the black rock to passing British steamers and others.
Thereabouts in 1849, the Hudsons Bay Company and Robert Dunsmuir got involved and began formal commercial tunnel operations for a few years…. Apparently a deep shaft was constructed that stretches out under the shore reaching halfway to Malcolm Island! Ultimately after a few starts and stops the mine closed its doors for good around 1922. The miner’s community of about 20 houses has long since vanished except various cement foundations, and remnants of stone fireplaces built for the mining foreman’s house.
Transition from the forest to seashore is accompanied by sounds hundreds of shorebirds chattering…. Opening to a stunning view of the Broughton Strait and Malcolm Island. There a broad rocky tidal flat to explore containing a variety of pools, barnacles, snails, mussels, seaweed, limpets, so many different kinds of clinging & crawling marine life. One can also see coal seam outcroppings here and there, in beach foundation bedrock.
In any weather wild natural seashores are a spectacular sight, but today was especially good for marine life viewing: cool temperatures, wind calm, a comfortable sun with passing fluffy clouds. The afternoon was camera perfect to search amongst seashells, tidal pools, beach logs, looking for marine life in their natural habitat.
We hadn’t gone far, perhaps a few hundred yards when we heard an echoing call that grabbed our attention.It was the distinctive whistling kee, kee, kee of a Black Oyster Catcher and the hunt was on…. Amongst eagle calls, raven cackles, and seagull cries we easily pinpointed a group of the Black Oystercatchers. They are flighty birds, so we crouched down, took out field glasses and watched these black busy birds feeding by the water’s edge. What a grand prize …. their amazing orange red eyes & beaks held our interest as we slowly inched closer to photograph them without disturbing the marvellous marine inhabitants.
Oystercatchers are of medium similar size to a plover, and year-around Suquash residents… They are attracted here by the tremendous amount of pollution and people free foraging. They tend to avoid populated places and when disturbed Oystercatchers will fly & shy away in unison issuing a chattering scolding to the intruder as they go.
The Black Oystercatcher is a resident species of most coastal habitats from Alaska, western Canadian shores and extending down to northwestern Mexico. There numbers appear stable at around 11,000 birds. These fine non swimmers make a nest of pebbles and shells in beach areas and live to the ripe old age of about 15 years. Interestingly they rarely eat oysters! Rather the black “oystercatcher” eats a variety of invertebrate marine life and other shellfish that includes mussels, whelks and limpets…. but only a rare oyster. They look for open shellfish and disable it by stabbing their strong red beak into the muscle that holds the shells together, giving access to choice energy rich fixings.
The hours melted away as we were wholly entertained by this amazing marine environment. And now the sun was setting so we sauntered back in the fading daylight when a piercing warning screech issued forth from a cavity under a large mussel and barnacle encrusted boulder. Rosie was excited darting in crouched to see what was making this strange sound. What she saw is pictured below. Another rare prize: a Coastal mink….. You don’t see or hear these small weasels everyday. Mink are expert at scurrying away unheard and unseen. This one was unusually noisy, seeking the safety of a rock hideout to avoid our trespass. The elusive shore mammal are territorial choosing “their” tidal pool turf… we had obviously gotten too close. Lucky day for us!
We ended our day with a profound sense of peace, inspired by the historical legacy of Suquash. Surrounded by the sights and sounds of nature and the gentle rhythm of wind and waves we felt deeply connected to the land… a feeling that carried both humility and admiration for the pioneers and First Peoples who have hunted, foraged, and fished this beach for generations. As we reflect on the pleasures of today there is no doubt Vancouver Island is a remarkable place.
Safe travels,
Gord
Photos © Christine Patterson