The Wonderful North Island ….
A Shoebox Story in an Old Photo
Photos invoke amazing memories. Such was the case one winter evening as I warmed by the woodstove…. reliving memories inspired by a picture taken in the Nimpkish Valley along British Columbia Highway 19. We were driving south from Port Hardy as we have done many times over the years, heading to our favourite camping location by a nameless Nimpkish Valley lake on wonderful North Vancouver Island.
The highway, completed in 1978, was bare of snow, the sky crystal clear. Alder trees were beginning to bud and bird life was returning from southern wintering locations, springtime change was everywhere.
I recalled with exactness packing a small trailer with warm cloths, camera equipment, water & food for two week, kayaks, fishing gear, then driving a gently winding highway to the “Nimpkish Valley” filled with tall evergreens, lakes, and amazing wildlife.
Where is the Valley
I recalled Valley history, following the course of the Nimpkish River, linking the west and east coasts of Vancouver Island. The river is the longest on the Vancouver Island at 118 kilometres, originating on the west slope of Mount Alston about 38 kilometres north of Gold River. Then it flows northwest into Nimpkish Lake, and eventually emptying into the Broughton Strait on Vancouver Island’s east coast. The Valley served as an important First Nation commerce route via waterways and forest pathways. Such routes were commonly called “grease trails” because of first people’s trade in oolichan grease, a much sought after semi-solid like butter used in meals and other ceremonial purposes.
Historical Use of Valley Trails
Namgis people canoed from Cormorant Island to the Nimpkish Valley to access its overland and river routes, Nimpkish, Woss, Artlish, Tanisha, and Gold River and associated trails to access Nuu-chah-nulth villages; located up and down the west coast of Vancouver Island…. Places like Espinoza Inlet (Ocluje), near the Village of Zeballos (Ehatis), and Gold River (Tsaxana). It was an arduous route even using today’s technology, however saved indigenous travellers from making a more treacherous ocean canoe voyage around the tip Vancouver Island’s Cape Scott.
A Valley Filled With Natural Splendour
I recalled the pull of the Valley’s natural splendour, and the irresistible beauty of a Coastal Rainforest; steep mountain sides, fast and lazy river courses, water falls, and pristine lake sites… Breathtaking fresh aromas of pure country air emanating from vibrant greenery of renewing flora, drawing us to the Valley. High above we are greeted by flocks of geese heading to summer nesting points.
The panoramic vistas along the winding North Island highway never disappoint, stretching from Sayward through Woss and Port McNeill, culminating in the north island coastal gateway of Port Hardy. Shifting continuously through glimpses of the a living tapestry of steep mountain sides, where new growth and ancient evergreen conifers stand in contrast as an ever-changing landscape.
We are amazed by the vastness: no buildings, no street lights, no residential developments; only endless hectares of fir, cedar, hemlock, spruce, and pine, intermixed with budding alders, maples, and other leafy deciduous trees.
A Valley of Hidden Secrets
The area abounds with folklore and stories of human interest… Tales of monuments to lost love, train stations long gone, mining & logging camps dismantled no longer to be seen… evidence of human settlement reclaimed by nature. Stories of pioneer days filled with high passion, adventure, new beginnings, and abandonment. Clues of which can be found amongst the undergrowth, remains of occupation covered in moss and lichen, old structures hidden by nature’s relentless hand. Remnants of stone, cement and steel… shrines to forgotten dreams buried in time, testaments to toil, love, and longing, in remote places of bustling human activity years ago.
Each visit to the Nimpkish Valley is humbling and inspiring…. a cultural sanctuary for those seeking a natural holistic life that captures one’s heart and imagination with simplicity. Foraging, wildlife viewing, camping, fishing, windsurfing, kayaking, canoeing, photography, and much much more.
A Vista of Mountain Ranges
Relaxing, I leaned back holding the photo…. my mind recalling snow capped peaks of the Vancouver Island Range, a series of mountains extending along the Valley’s length and creating a home to North Island’s Mount Cain Alpine Park. Sub ranges include Karmutzen, Bonanza, Province, and Sutton Ranges… a place for wildlife, hikers, campers, and loggers alike. I thought of the bigger picture: The Nimpkish Valley’s mountains are part of the Insular Mountain system that extends upwards through to the Queen Charlotte Sound to the Islands of Haida Gwaii; peaks over 2000 meters. So much wholesome beauty to enjoy.
Wildlife Rich Camping Pleasure
I recalled family camping adventures, children laughing, singing, and playing, their voices echoing across the lake. Pinder Peak’s stately prominence ever on guard watching over numerous lakes and watercourses hosting canoeing, swiming joy. Wonderful adventure in remoteness, void of urbanization, teaching children simpler ways as they frolicked amongst Mother Nature’s carpeted beauty.
Amazing Biodiversity
The Nimpkish Valley has living depth, truly a remarkable tapestry of contrasting colours, home to an amazing variety wildlife viewing opportunities: black bears, blacktailed deer, cougars, elk, raccoons, muskrats, otters, and beavers. Birdlife flourishes, loons and other waterfowl fish. Bald eagles , osprey, red tailed hawks soar above the treetops, songbirds flitter throughout the moist undergrowth like sunlight.
I recall evening lowlands alive with a musical chorus of frogs thriving in the creeks and shaded pools…. amphibians, a vital indicator of an intact circle of life, their presence essential for maintaining the delicate ecological balance. From feeding on insects, such as mosquitoes, flies, beetles… to serving as prey for birds and mammals, frogs help regulate and sustain the vibrancy of wetland micro ecosystems. Their role extends even further as key bioindicators of habitat quality, a robust presence is a measure of overall environmental health, an important baseline gauge to measure the success of rainforest habitat regeneration. Each note in their chorus a testament to the interconnectedness of nature, where the smallest creatures play a critical role in the balance, survival, and harmony of the valley’s forest and wilderness systems.
A Valley Worth Protecting
However, the valley’s abundance is fragile, highlighting a continuous need to assure our personal hiking, camping, and other recreational activities do not disrupt the delicate balance of nature. It is the responsibility of all users to protect the resilience of remote wilderness areas for generations to come. Each visit, a new opportunity to observe, guard, and appreciate the wonderful world of nature and the wildlife that inhabit these natural surroundings.
The Pull to Return to the Valley
Soon we will lace up our boots and ready our gear with exciting anticipation to begin exploring the intricate network of Valley trails, greeted by familiar wildlife sounds and the rustle of small mammals in the underbrush. The trails, twisting through regenerating forests and meandering along babbling creeks, will offer endless surprises. Ferns unfurl delicate fronds, and salal bushes sprout glossy leaves, a rebirth of freshness beneath towering spruce, cedar, and fir. Moss carpets softening footsteps and adding a sense of quiet mystery to the woodland floor.
Well, the day is closing and the woodstove’s ambers are fading, yet the tired old photo has left me with warming thoughts… reminding me Spring will soon return, bringing with it colourful change signalling Valley camping opportunities. Chris, Rosie, and I will once again set out to savour the North Vancouver Islands winding trails and flourishing ecosystems. The promise of new growth and the gentle thaw of winter infuse each step with energy, as the landscape awakens in vibrant hues of green and gold. Our visits have become a cherished tradition—an annual pilgrimage to reconnect with nature and each other.
I carefully returned the photo to its shoebox home…. Aahhh the Valley…. A marvellous wildlife habitat in the wild kingdom…. Filled with trekking adventure for those who seek excitement off the beaten trail.
The Wonderful Nimpkish Valley!
Safe Travels
Gord
Gordon F. W. Patterson
Photo © Christine Patterson